5196P-001
CurrentCalatrava Platinum Hand-Wind
2014 — present
37mm 950 platinum with rhodium dial, hand-wound Calibre 215 PS.
The Calatrava has been the cornerstone of Patek Philippe's collection since 1932. Taking its name from the Calatrava cross — the symbol of Patek Philippe's logo — it embodies the principle that the highest form of watchmaking is restraint and perfection of proportion. Designed by the Bauhaus-influenced designer Gilbert Albert in dialogue with the manufacture, the classic Calatrava follows what Patek calls the 'Calatrava Principle': a round case, stepped bezel, thin profile, and a dial free of unnecessary decoration. The reference 5196 — Calatrava in 37mm yellow gold, white gold, or platinum — is the purest expression of this philosophy, housing the hand-wound Calibre 215 PS. The reference 6119 in 40mm with an in-house automatic movement broadens the Calatrava's appeal to those who prefer a modern case size without sacrificing the dress watch ethos. The Calatrava is perhaps the quintessential watch for collectors who have moved beyond conspicuous status symbols toward the quieter excellence of a flawless, understated timepiece.
Key References
100%
Authenticated
5,000+
Pieces Sold
25+
Countries
Specifications
| Movement | Calibre 215 PS (5196 hand-wind) · Calibre 26-330 S C (6119 automatic) — Patek Philippe Seal |
|---|---|
| Power reserve | 44 hours (215 PS) · 45 hours (26-330 S C) |
| Water resistance | 30 metres (typically) |
| Case material | 18ct Yellow Gold · 18ct White Gold · 18ct Rose Gold · Platinum |
| Case diameter | 37mm (5196) · 39mm (5226G) · 40mm (6119) |
| Thickness | 7.6mm (5196) · 8.6mm (6119) |
| Lug-to-lug | 44mm (5196) |
| Weight | ~75g on leather strap |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Bezel | Stepped (Calatrava style) |
| Bracelet | Alligator leather strap with Patek-stamped buckle |
Reference Guide
5196P-001
Current2014 — present
37mm 950 platinum with rhodium dial, hand-wound Calibre 215 PS.
5196G-010
Current2008 — present
37mm 18ct white gold, silver dial with applied white gold indices.
5196R-001
Current2008 — present
37mm 18ct rose gold, silver dial with applied rose gold indices.
6119G-001
Current2021 — present
39mm 18ct white gold with hobnail bezel and silver dial. Calibre 30-255 PS.
6119R-001
Current2021 — present
39mm 18ct rose gold with hobnail bezel and chocolate dial.
5226G-001
Current2022 — present
39mm white gold with date and central seconds. Sportier than the classic 5196.
5115J
Discontinued2008 — discontinued
35mm yellow gold with hinged caseback (officer style) and Roman numerals.
Market Price
Current retail (5196G-010)
~$25,000
Pre-owned (low)
$18,000
Pre-owned (high)
$45,000
Recently observed
5196G-010 white gold trades $19,000–$24,000 with full set; 5196R rose gold $20,000–$26,000. Platinum 5196P at $32,000–$45,000.
6119G/R 'Clous de Paris' commands $26,000–$32,000. 5226G with date trades close to retail $28,000–$32,000. Discontinued 5115J yellow gold officer at $14,000–$18,000.
History
1932
Calatrava reference 96 launched — designed in the Bauhaus tradition by David Penney.
1934
Reference 96 becomes the modern definition of a dress watch.
1985
Reference 3919 introduces hobnail (Clous de Paris) bezel — Calatrava signature element.
2008
Reference 5196 modernises the line in 37mm with hand-wound Calibre 215 PS.
2018
Reference 6006G introduces date and pointer date complications in Calatrava case.
2021
Reference 6119G/R 'Clous de Paris' launches in 39mm — modern interpretation of the hobnail bezel.
2022
Reference 5226G launched — 39mm with date and sportier sweep seconds.
Buying Guide
01
The 5196 is a hand-wound dress watch in 37mm — the purest expression of Patek's dress watch philosophy. The 6119 (39mm) adds the iconic Clous de Paris hobnail bezel and uses an automatic movement. Both are excellent; the 5196 is more historically significant, the 6119 more contemporary.
02
The platinum 5196P with its small diamond at 6 o'clock (Patek's tradition for platinum) is the most prestigious time-only Calatrava. Trades $32,000–$45,000 and represents the pinnacle of Patek's dress watch line in a non-complicated reference.
03
Calatrava service intervals are typically 5–7 years. Service costs $1,500–$2,500 at the manufacture and takes 4–6 months. Always confirm service history when buying pre-owned — a Calatrava more than 6 years from last service should factor service cost into the purchase decision.
Sizing
Calatrava 5196 at 37mm with 44mm lug-to-lug suits virtually any wrist — one of the most versatile dress watches in production. The 6119 (39mm) needs 6.5"+ wrists. The 5226G (39mm) wears slightly larger due to its sportier dial. All Calatravas are slim (7.6–8.6mm) and slip easily under any cuff.
Compare
Complications collection extends the Calatrava philosophy with annual calendars, world times, and chronographs. For collectors who want Calatrava aesthetics with mechanical complexity.
Calatrava and Nautilus represent the two ends of Patek's catalogue: pure dress watch versus integrated sports watch. Many Patek collectors own both — they serve fundamentally different purposes.
Grand Complications builds on Calatrava's classical aesthetic with perpetual calendars, minute repeaters, and the most complex mechanical achievements.
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