124270
CurrentExplorer 36
2021 — present
36mm Oystersteel with classic 3-6-9 dial. Calibre 3230. Pure tool-watch aesthetic.
The Rolex Explorer is one of the most historically significant watches ever made. The original Explorer was developed alongside the 1953 Everest expeditions of Colonel John Hunt and Edmund Hillary, who wore Rolex Oysters during their successful summit. The Explorer was Rolex's response: a clean, legible, supremely robust 3-6-9 dial design capable of functioning in the most hostile conditions on earth. The Explorer I (current ref. 124270 in 36mm) has returned to its original proportions after a decade-long excursion into 39mm and 40mm territory. The purity of the dial — matte black, applied 3-6-9 Arabic numerals, and a seconds hand — is unchanged in its essentials from 1953. The Explorer II (current ref. 226570) is a more complex proposition: a 42mm case with an additional orange 24-hour hand and a fixed bezel marked in 24 hours, originally designed for cave explorers who could not distinguish day from night underground. Both models represent extraordinary value pre-owned: they are among Rolex's most under-appreciated references relative to their quality and heritage.
Key References
100%
Authenticated
5,000+
Pieces Sold
25+
Countries
Specifications
| Movement | Calibre 3230 (Explorer 124270 / 224270) · Calibre 3285 (Explorer II 226570) — Superlative Chronometer |
|---|---|
| Power reserve | 70 hours |
| Water resistance | 100 metres |
| Case material | 904L Oystersteel · Two-tone Yellow Rolesor (124273) |
| Case diameter | 36mm (Explorer 124270) · 40mm (Explorer 224270) · 42mm (Explorer II 226570) |
| Thickness | 11.6mm (Explorer 36) · 12.5mm (Explorer II) |
| Lug-to-lug | 43.5mm (Explorer 36) · 47.5mm (Explorer 40) · 49.0mm (Explorer II) |
| Weight | ~135g (Explorer 36 steel) · ~165g (Explorer II) |
| Crystal | Sapphire with Cyclops (Explorer II) · No Cyclops (Explorer 124270) |
| Bezel | Smooth (Explorer) · Fixed 24-hour engraved (Explorer II) |
| Bracelet | Oyster three-link with Easylink extension |
Reference Guide
124270
Current2021 — present
36mm Oystersteel with classic 3-6-9 dial. Calibre 3230. Pure tool-watch aesthetic.
124273
Current2023 — present
36mm Two-tone Oystersteel & yellow gold — the first two-tone Explorer in history.
224270
Current2023 — present
40mm Oystersteel — return to a 40mm size after the 36mm-only era. Calibre 3230.
226570
Current2021 — present
42mm Oystersteel with 24-hour engraved bezel and orange GMT hand. Calibre 3285.
214270
Discontinued2010 — 2021
39mm Explorer with Calibre 3132 — bridging the modern era. Two iterations: 'Mk1' shorter handset, 'Mk2' longer handset.
216570
Discontinued2011 — 2021
42mm Explorer II with Calibre 3187. White ('Polar') and black dial options.
114270
Discontinued2001 — 2010
36mm Explorer with Calibre 3130. The last 36mm Explorer before the 39mm transition.
Market Price
Current retail (124270 Explorer 36)
~$7,500
Pre-owned (low)
$8,000
Pre-owned (high)
$12,500
Recently observed
Explorer 36 124270 with full set trades $8,500–$10,500; 40mm 224270 commands $9,500–$11,500. Explorer II 226570 'Polar' white dial $11,500–$14,500.
Two-tone 124273 trades $13,000–$15,500. Discontinued 214270 (39mm) softens to $7,500–$9,500. Vintage 1016 (1963–1989) commands $15,000–$30,000 for clean examples.
History
1953
Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay summit Everest wearing Rolex Oyster Perpetuals.
1953
Explorer ref. 6350 launches following the Everest expedition.
1971
Explorer II ref. 1655 introduced with fixed 24-hour bezel and orange GMT hand for cave explorers.
1985
Explorer II ref. 16550 introduces the modern white 'Polar' dial.
1989
Last vintage Explorer ref. 1016 ends production after 26 years — longest-running Rolex reference.
2010
Explorer 39mm (214270) replaces 36mm (114270) — controversial size change.
2021
Explorer returns to 36mm as ref. 124270, restoring historical proportions.
2023
Explorer 40 (224270) introduced alongside the 36 — first time both sizes coexist.
Buying Guide
01
Explorer 36 is the historically authentic choice and most versatile. Explorer 40 is the modern preference for those who want more presence. Explorer II 42 is the GMT-equipped variant with significantly more presence and a different visual identity entirely.
02
The 124270 (36mm, 2021+) returns to the historical Explorer size and updates the Calibre to 3230. The 214270 (39mm, 2010–2021) has subtly different proportions but is now discontinued. The 124270 is the modern collector's choice.
03
The white 'Polar' dial (introduced 1985) is the more distinctive and collectible Explorer II variant. The black dial is more conservative and slightly more affordable. Polar typically commands a $1,000–$2,000 premium pre-owned.
Sizing
Explorer 36 (124270) at 43.5mm lug-to-lug fits virtually any wrist — one of the most universally wearable watches in production. Explorer 40 needs 6.5" minimum. Explorer II 42mm with 49.0mm lug-to-lug requires 7" wrist minimum and the 12.5mm thickness is more substantial. Smooth bezel makes both Explorer models slip easily under cuffs.
Compare
Explorer and Submariner share the Oyster case philosophy and 100m water resistance, but Explorer has a smooth fixed bezel and clean 3-6-9 dial vs Submariner's dive bezel. Explorer is the stealth tool watch; Submariner is the icon.
Explorer II and GMT-Master II share the second-time-zone concept but Explorer II has a fixed 24-hour bezel (you cannot rotate it for a third zone) — designed for AM/PM tracking by cave explorers. GMT-Master II is the dedicated travel watch.
Explorer and Datejust 36 share dimensions but with completely different personalities: Explorer is sport/tool with smooth bezel and 3-6-9 dial; Datejust is dress/sport with fluted or smooth bezel and date complication.
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